This 36 miles passage connects Kabul with Peshawar.
The pass has historically been the gateway for invasions of the Indian
subcontinent from the northwest. The name Khyber is also applied to the range
of broken hills and spurs of the Spin Ghar Range. On either side of the connecting ridge
are the sources of two small streams, the beds of which form the Khyber gorge.
This narrow gorge forms the Khyber Pass; it winds between cliffs of shale and
limestone, 600-1,000 feet high, and enters the Khyber Hills from the Shadi
Bagiar opening, a few miles beyond Jamrud, Pak, and continues northwestward for about 33 miles.
Just beyond the old Afghan fort of Haft Chah, it opens onto the barren Lowyah
Dakkah plain, which stretches to the Kabul River.
After a steep ascent at its southern entrance, the
pass rises gradually to Fort Ali Masjid, where the Khyber River leaves the pass to the south. For 5 miles from
Ali Masjid the pass becomes a defile not more than 600 feet wide, flanked by
imposing and precipitous walls. From Zintara village on northward, the pass
becomes a valley a mile or more wide, with forts, villages, and scattered
cultivation plots. About 10 miles west of Ali Masjid lies Landi Kotal fort and
cantonment, this is the highest point in
the pass and is also an important market centre with an alternate route back to
Peshawar. There the summit widens out northward for 2 miles. The main pass,
however, descends from Landi Kotal through Shinwari territory to Landi Khana,
where it runs through another gorge and enters Afghanistan territory at Towr
Kham, winding another 10 miles down the valley to Lowyah Dakkah.
The Khyber Pass is threaded by a caravan track and
by a good hard-surface road. The railway through the pass connects Jamrud with
Landi Khana, near the Afghan frontier; the line, with its 34 tunnels and 94
bridges and culverts, revolutionized transportation in the area. The pass may
be skirted by a road fork that enters the hills about 9 miles north of Jamrud
and emerges at Lowyah Dakkah.
Few passes have had such continuing strategic
importance or so many historic associations as the Khyber Pass. Through it have
passed Persians, Greeks, Mughals, Afghans, and the British, for whom it was the
key point in control of the Afghan border. In the 5th century BC Darius I the
Great of Persia conquered the country around Kabul and marched through the
Khyber Pass to the Indus River.
Two centuries later Hephaestion and Perdiccas,
generals of Alexander the Great, probably used the pass. Buddhism flourished in
and around the Khyber when it was part of Ashoka's kingdom, Buddhist remains
include Kafir Kot, Shopla stupa also called the Khyber Top, and the stupa near
Ali Masjid. The pass was used by Mahmud of Ghazna, Babur, Nader Shah, and Ahmad
Shah Durrani and his grandson Shah Zaman in their invasions of India.
Ranjit Singh, the Sikh ruler of the Punjab, extended
his kingdom as far as Jamrud in the early 19th century.The Pashtun Afridi
people of the Khyber area always resisted foreign control, and numerous punitive
expeditions were undertaken against them by the Mughals and the British. The
first British advance northward into the Khyber took place in 1839, and during
the First Anglo-Afghan War the pass was the scene of many skirmishes with the
Afridis. The Treaty of Gandamak, which was signed during the Second
Anglo-Afghan War in 1879, left the Khyber tribes under British control. In 1897
the Afridis seized the pass and held it for several months but were defeated in
the Tirah expedition of 1897. The British became responsible for the safety of
the pass, which is now controlled by the Pakistani Khyber Agency.
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